Monday,
5 May 2025
Walking in the footsteps of a Milawa pioneer

IT was like a timewarp for the owners of Henley Wine Bar and Kitchen, a relatively new hospitality business established in the iconic Old Emu Inn at Milawa.

To the owners and staff came the greatest of surprises when they learned that the great-great nephew of the business' namesake (James Henley who founded the original Old Emu Inn in the 19th century) dropped in for a visit last week.

Business owner Sommer Lee Parker was so impressed with the James Henley story and the family's impact on the region and state she named the business after them.

Andrew Henley from Pennsylvania USA is the first of the Henley family from the USA to visit Milawa in 100 years and he was thrilled with the reception he received.

"As I walked into the bottle shop, it was a wonderful site to see with the original wooden floors and the exposed brick walls," he said.

"Each room at the location offers a great, comfortable, and cozy location for a glass of wine or a meal."

James Henley was Andrew's great-great grandfather's brother, who kept in contact with his siblings in the United States up until his death.

In 1841, the Henley family immigrated to the United States from Herefordshire, England and settled in Hillsville, Pennsylvania.

Shortly thereafter, the patriarch of the family, Matthew Henley (1795–1846, died in 1846 at the age of 51, leaving his wife with six children, ages four to 21.

"It was shortly thereafter that two of the eldest brothers, James and Thomas (1825–1894), decided to move west, settling in California and Oregon around 1849–50.

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"Both brothers went to the region for the gold rush at the time."

Upon their return from California, the two brothers decided to travel back west, with one of the brothers, Thomas, landing in Missouri and the other, James, in Victoria, Australia.

"Uncle James quickly took up entrepreneurial opportunities following his move to the area," Andrew said.

"Following the gold rush to Melbourne, he worked at the gold sites of Bendigo, Buckland and Tarrawingee.

"In 1861, James built the Old Emu Inn, which marked the town corners in the rural country just outside of Wangaratta, known as Milawa.

"Here, he purchased land and cultivated a 120 acre vineyard and cellars, capable of holding 100,000 gallons of wine...this was known as the 'Richmond House' vineyard. "Uncle James brought with him a Kentucky tobacco farmer, who assisted in growing 27 acres of Florida, Havana, Connecticut and Maryland varieties.

"Uncle James was noted as the first grower and manufacturer of tobacco in Victoria and won prizes of bronze and silver medals in London exhibitions."

In 1896, James and his wife, Sophia, announced their travels to the British Isles and the United States and celebrated their leave at the Library Hall in Milawa, where more than 80 individuals came to celebrate their departure, announcing at the end, "Say au revoir, but not good-bye" and closed the event by singing Auld Lang Syne.

"It was on this trip that James would reconvene with his siblings, who he had not seen for over 50 years," Andrew said.

"Here, he took a photo with his family and celebrated his stay.

"For over 100 years, a member of the Henley family from the States has not visited Milawa until today, where I was able to tour the Old Emu Inn.

"Sommer-Lee gave an incredible tour from basement to attic of the inn and provided me much context of my family's involvement in Milawa.

"To this day, Henley's Wine Bar and Kitchen is the only publicly-accessible location, commemorating James and Sophia Henley's involvement as the first successful tobacco producers in Victoria, as they lie in an unmarked grave in the cemetery.

"Sommer Lee and her staff are wonderfully welcoming and operate a beautiful business and I took with me some business cards and menus to show my family in the States."